PUNAKHA
Punakha, nestled at an altitude of 1,300 meters (4,265 feet), was Bhutan’s capital until until 1955 and continues to be the winter residence of the Je Khenpo, the Chief Abbot. With its temperate climate and nourished by the Pho Chu and Mo Chu rivers, Punakha boasts the most fertile valley in Bhutan. The journey along the Thimphu-Punakha road offers breathtaking vistas, particularly from the Dochu-la pass at 3,088 meters (10,130 feet).
PUNAKHA DZONG
Situated at the strategic confluence of the Pho Chu and Mo Chu rivers, the dzong was erected in 1637 by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, serving as the religious and administrative hub of the region. Despite enduring damage from four catastrophic fires and an earthquake over the centuries, the dzong has undergone complete restoration in recent years under the guidance of the present monarch. Visitors can explore this historic site during the Punakha festival in early spring and throughout the summer months, once the monk body has relocated to Thimphu.
KHAMSUM YUELLEY NAMGYAL CHORTEN
Commissioned by Her Majesty Queen Ashi Tsering Yangdon for the country’s protection, this three-story chorten offers a commanding vista of Punakha Dzong, particularly striking when journeying back to Punakha. Adorned with deities from the teaching cycle of Dudjom Rinpoche, a revered Nyingmapa master, the chorten serves to subdue adversaries and negative influences while promoting peace and harmony. Accessible via a half-hour walk from the main road, it stands as a testament to Bhutan’s spiritual heritage and dedication to national well-being.
LIMBUKHA
From April to November, when the Je Khenpo and central monk body reside in Thimphu, visitors can drive to Punakha Dzong. Crossing a narrow suspension bridge spanning the river, one can relish the fresh breeze and panoramic views of the grand dzong. Follow the path lined with farmhouses ascending towards the Dompala hills, offering superb vistas of Punakha Dzong and surrounding villages. After about a two-and-a-half-hour journey through pine forests, reach Limbukha, known for cultivating Bhutan’s renowned red rice, celebrated for its health benefits. Legend has it that Limbukha villagers historically acted as mediators for peace during medieval conflicts, a tradition honored during Punakha’s annual religious festival.
CHIME LHAKHANG
Chimi Lhakhang, a Buddhist monastery nestled in the Punakha District of Bhutan, near Lobesa, holds a rich history dating back to its construction in 1499 by Ngawang Choegyel, the 14th Drukpa hierarch. Its origins are steeped in legend, as it is said to have been blessed by the eccentric saint Drukpa Kunley, known as the “Divine Madman.” Legend has it that Lama Kunley subdued a demon at Dochu La and trapped it in a rock near where the monastery now stands.
Perched atop a round hillock, Chimi Lhakhang is a sacred site revered for housing the original wooden phallus brought from Tibet by Lama Kunley. This phallus, adorned with a silver handle, symbolizes fertility and is used to bless pilgrims, particularly women seeking blessings for childbirth. Visitors partake in a unique tradition of being gently struck on the head with this symbolic object.
Accessing the monastery involves a scenic 20-minute walk through the picturesque agricultural fields of mustard and rice from the village of Sopsokha, approximately 10 kilometers from Punakha. Along the way, prayer flags flutter in the breeze, guiding pilgrims along the muddy and dusty path. The entire journey is imbued with spiritual significance, as evidenced by the paintings of phalluses adorning the exterior walls of every house in the village.
Lama Drukpa Kunley affectionately referred to the hillock upon which the monastery stands as the “breast of a woman,” owing to its rounded shape. This picturesque setting, coupled with its spiritual ambiance, makes Chimi Lhakhang a truly unique and revered destination for pilgrims and travelers alike.
KYICHU LHAKHANG
Kyichu Lhakhang, established in the 7th century, ranks among Bhutan’s two oldest and most revered shrines, the other being Jambey Lhakhang in Bumthang. This lhakhang features twin temples, with the initial construction attributed to Tibetan King Songtsen Gampo during the 7th century. In 1968, H.M. Ashi Kesang, the Queen Mother of Bhutan, orchestrated the construction of a second temple mirroring the first in style, further enriching the spiritual heritage of Kyichu Lhakhang.
TALO
Perched atop a ridge at approximately 2,800m altitude, the charming village of Talo offers a picturesque retreat above Punakha valley. Renowned for its pristine appearance, Talo is distinguished among Punakha villages. Talo Sangnacholing, nestled on a small plateau at the village’s pinnacle, provides a breathtaking panorama of the valley, and surrounding settlements. The women of Talo are famed for their striking beauty, adding to the village’s allure. Accessible by an hour’s drive from Punakha, Talo promises a serene escape into Bhutan’s natural and cultural splendor.
